I have finally made some pants! It’s been years since I’ve made real pants so I really forgot how. I’ve also forgotten my fit adjustments, but since my body is so different now, I guess that really doesn’t matter. I’ve been avoiding making pants because I’ve been wanting to lose weight. But it’s been years, and the extra weight hasn’t gone anywhere. And I really need some pants! So WTH, I did it.
These have been finished for about two weeks, but I’ve been trying to get someone to come over to take pics of them on me. But it hasn’t worked out so I’ll just display them flat.
Pattern: BWOF 6/24 #103, I decided to use a Burda pattern because I remember how much better these fit me compared to the Big 4.
Fabric Used: Cotton Stretch Twill from the stash (it’s older than my daughter)
Kinda on dressform:
Back: (It looks better w/ my big butt to filling it out, lol)
Hip Yoke Pocket and Side Inset:
These are the first pair of pants I’ve made since having my serger and look how clean it looks inside. I love my serger even more now. If you’ve been contemplating getting a serger, its so worth it.
Before I cut the pattern I made these adjustments because I remember that I used to have to do this:
-big booty adjustment, and extended back crotch by 1/2”, after wearing, I could’ve added more
-shortened front crotch by 1/2”
I also went down a size because these were running a little big. It might just be the fit, though. This pattern is from 2004 and pant fit has definitely changed since then. The waist was also too high for me so I lowered it by 3/4”. This turned it into a comfortable mid-rise instead of at the waist.
During sewing and fitting, I found the waistband to be too big so I cut off 2” from it. Because the pants were already cut and sewn, I just eased them into the waistband. I guess that’s cheating, but I kind of like the effect. The waistband feels nice and secure in place, but the pants have a nice amount of ease. Next time though, I’ll probably just use a smaller size in the waist.
I left off the belt loops because I don’t wear belts and I don’t like the lines the belt loops make under my shirts.
The pants look and fit pretty good but there is still a fit issue. There is too much length in the back thigh. I’m not sure if it’s the way the pant is supposed to fit or what. Upon closer inspection in the magazine, it kind of looks that way on the model with the side view.
For the fly, I used Sandra’s Betzina’s fly zipper method. There’s a video here, but I really just use the Power Sewing book. I think the fly facing on this pattern is too narrow. The finished width in 1”. I followed the pattern, but it could be wider.
Sewing these were very fustrating. I kept making mistakes and I kept having to re-sew things. I think I did the fly like four times, no kidding. I guess it’s just about re-learning how to do things. I’m pretty sure my next pair will go easier now that I’ve had a refresher.
I really wanted these to be a kind of wearable muslin because I wanted to use this pattern for jeans. But I think I’m scrapping that plan. I like the way they are for casual khakis, but I don’t think I will like them for jeans. I think I’m just going to end up using my RTW that I like as a pattern.
Although, I like the crop pant look, they can be a little tricky to wear so wear so here’s some styling tips I found from Stylewatch Magazine from Stacy London:
And some more from Angie at You Look Fab
I will say after playing around with these pants, these tips are dead on. Main things to remember- slim leg (these pants have this) and a heel looks best (but they aren’t too bad w/ flat sandals). Also, after testing different hem lengths, I ended up hemming mine about 4” above my ankles. They don’t look like high waters and I think it looks more slimming and less shortening at that length.
After sewing, I was kind of blah with the pants. The issue with the extra fabric in the thigh, was really annoying me. I can be really anal sometimes. But after wearing them, I love them. It’s not as bad or noticeable as I thought it was. And the fabric is really good! It’s cotton, but it doesn’t wrinkle really bad. I worked at my desk all day in these and I didn’t look a huge wrinkly mess. I also notice the difference the interfacing in key areas made. It really helps the pants retain their shape and look nice throughout the day. So in the end, I love em!
Would I recommend?:
I think these are great for someone who is annoyed by contemporary pant fit and wants a more traditional fit. Although, I do like my pants, I’m not sure if I will make them again. I really want to play around with different fits and styles before I settle on a TNT pair.