Lauren's Virtual World

Monday, February 15, 2010

RTW Knock-off



Finished Garment:


Yeah, I’m a frumpy work at home mom of a 4 yr old. So this is the type of designer style I copy. Despite the fact that it’s essentially a sweat shirt, I think it has some cool seaming. Plus it looks really cute w/ leggings and boots. BTW, when my daughter saw it, she told my mom I was making an ugly shirt w/ pretty pockets. I think that’s a hint to step my style up, lol.

Pattern: Mccall 4219- an ancient OOP which is basically a knits wardrobe. I used the basic knit tunic as a base.


Fabric Used: Sofia Doubleknit (rayon/ poly/ lycra)

Since this pattern was a simple tunic style, I really just used it as a base. I don't have the time to draft from scratch.

- I cut the pattern up to re-create the interesting seaming
-I added the horizontal inseam pockets
-I added a fitted band at the bottom
-I lengthed the pattern
-I did some shaping at the seams so it was not as boxy as the original tunic pattern

I also didn't copy the RTW style exactly. I made mine more fitted and shaped. It's not tight but it's not as baggy as the models. I'm very curvy so I would look terrible if there wasn't any shape. Also the sleeves are more fitted. It's fits me like a shaped tunic. I think mine is a little longer so I could do it w/ leggings. It also looks good w/ fitted jeans like the model is wearing, too. You have to excuse the fit on my dressform. She's a hot mess but she's all I got right now. Also note, she's lopsided, not the garment, lol.

Pocket Detail:

I like it, it's warm and comfortable. And I did get a much better reaction from my daughter when I wore it w/ leggings and boots.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Ooh La Lingerie

So I really wanted to enter a PR contest this year. Leave it up to me to enter a contest w/o a prize, lol. But I had the materials on hand and the timing was right. I am really trying to get my stash down and I had some crepe back satin, left over from a project, and some lace fabric, from a project that never materialized. I had too much to throw away, but not enough to make anything I wanted. So a cami and tap pant set seemed like the obvious choice.

For the cami I used the pattern from Kwik Sew's Beautiful Lingerie. The only alteration I made was to add a dart in the armhole area. I needed an FBA, but decided to pinch out what I didn't need and form a dart. It went w/ the design.

This was my first time working w/ lace and I'm surprised at how easy and fun (yeah, I said fun) it was. My main resource for this was Bridal Couture by Susan Khalje. BTW, this book is a must have. My cami set it not couture, everything was sewn by machine, but her lace working tips were invaluable. Since I had lace fabric that was only a 1/2 yrd, I had to turn into lace trim w/ some clever piecing. In fact the piecing made it easier b/c it went over curves smoother.

Here's a pic showing my lace fabric and my creative piecing.


I also had to pick a method to attatch the lace and after a few samples here's what I decided on:

-I stabilized the all edges w/ strips of fusible knit interfacing. Then, I serged the raw edges (even the neckline) and turned and stitched them down. This worked great since many of my edges have curves.
- I cut up my lace into strips following the motif I thought would work best for my design.
-I placed and pinned the pieces on my garment in a way I thought looked best, taking extra care to make the piecing invisible.
-I then zigzagged around the edge of the lace that covered the body of the garment, and then zigzagged around the edge (hem and neckline) leaving any over-hanging lace free. I used black thread on top and a thread matching my fabric in the bobbin. Afterwards, I went back and zigzagged around the edges were I pieced the lace.

Lace Detail:

Lace detail from the inside:

Top back edge where you can see how I finished the edges and you can also see how I attatched the strap. I just stitched it down in a square.

For the tap pants I used Burda Magazine Dec 2008 #129. This is why I love all my Burda back issues. Anytime I get it in my head to make something, I am guaranteed find it in a Burda back issue.

As for this pattern, it's good. No complaints. Just a few notes:

-The waist is high and they are very short.
-They're not the loose, flared style. They're comfortable, but they are more fitted in the leg.
-The waistband takes 1/4" elastic, the casing is 3/8" on the pattern.

Final Garment:


I LOVE it!!! I got rid of some stash, learned some new techniques, and got a pretty cami set. What's not to love!

In fact, I want to make more lingerie. I have some red crepe back satin, left over black lace pieces, some baby blue charmuese, and some yellow lace fabric. I'm thinking about another cami in the red and black, I don't think I have enough for a set. And a lace trimmed chemise for the baby blue and yellow lace.